Kafe Lagidze, St. Petersburgh, Russia

Twice I have visited Russia, last time being in april 2012. We took a ferry cruise from Helsinki to St. Petersburgh and spent a day in our old capital with small group of friends. The city was as impressive as we anticipated, even when we had so little time to look around. I had searched earlier from internet for a place to have a lunch, so that we wouldn't have to seek for a place in a hurry. As usual, my choice was perfect and the restaurant proved to be wonderful experience adding to our pilgrimage to our former capital and its wide cultural offering. Kafe Lagidze is a Georgian restaurant just few hundred meters east from the church on spilled blood - or church of resurrection, officially. Just walk east from there, cross a canal by a bridge near the circus and you are there. Just as we preferred, the waitress wasn't fluent in English, so our hands and few words of Russian were useful in communicating. Georgian restaurants are popular in St. Petersburgh, I read somewhere, and rightfully so; food is tasty. We ordered some food from the English menu, and waitress brought plates of food, tasty and addictive. Of course we ordered shots of vodka for starters - my first taste of vodka - after all we were in Russia. Since the last conflict between Russia and Georgia, there are still limits for Georgian wine, therefore they hadn't included it in the list. That doesn't mean that they don't serve Georgian wine, you just have to ask for it nicely, and look, there was wine. The atmosphere and serving was right on the money - and I don't say this because it was reasonably cheap. This place is one I would definetely want to come back some day.

Rome, Italy, Alfredo e Ada

Small trattoria on Via dei Banchi Nuovi was where I had my first dinner in Italy. It is a genuine, old-school trattoria with nothing fancy - and it is located in the middle of Rome. Excellent. There will be no menu to offer, dinner is all fixed, the chef decides what people want to eat, every day. You may choose from meat or fish, and from white or red wine. But that is all you get - and all you want. No time wasted on hard decisions, and you can concentrate on the main thing, eating. Alfredo has unfortunately passed away some years ago, but I just checked that Ada is probably still alive, and cooking for all hungry customers that will stumble inside. Mostly Italian people inside, but few 'imigrantes' like myself will once in a while find their heaven. Food is good, nothing pretentious but simple Italian food. First the pasta, and then the main course (meat/fish). Dessert is simple, biscotti, just like my grandmother used to offer back in 1980's. Wine was house red, hence the modest quality, but it was suitable for everything else I had and experienced. If you want old charming and genuine Italian experience, find yourself an authentic trattoria like this, sit down, relax and enjoy. Life is simple at its best, just like traditional trattoria.

You could easily walk by without noticing the trattoria. Instead, just step in and relax, life is good.

 Ada was back in the kitchen, but her friends help serving the food. Small place gets full quick, so you'll better get there early.

 One happy customer. And picture of late Alfredo in the corner.

 Pasta, tomato sauce and parmigiano cheese. All you need for good plate. Wine from ultra-modern glasses.

High-tech receipt. Total 38 euros for two, 19 euros for three-meal dinner and red wine - in the middle of Rome. When you leave the trattoria, lights of the Roman cobbled streets in the evening draw you back to 'good old days' you wish you had lived in the past.

Rome, Italy, Primo Cafe

For my first international review I chose Rome, and the only place I visited twice on my visit back in December 2009. Located on Campo di Fiori, Primo Cafe (there is at least one other Primo nearby) was good place to sit and relax by the heaters, watching busy campo - and wonderful sights and wonders walking by. Having eaten before in nearby trattorias, the idea was just to drink wine, sit, and watch people being italian. For me that was easier to say than to do - so I ordered some snack to eat together with the wine. Being bit trendy place, there still wasn't anything wrong with the serving, on the contrary. Prosciutto, cheese, vegetables, bruschettas etc., everything was just perfect for an evening snack.

 View inside: no tables there, only bar, kitchenette, and in the back relieving facilities.

 Since we were in the medieval centre of Roma, all tables were outside, and therefore good heating was necessary in December. It proved to be the best outdoor-heating I had ever experienced - therefore I undressed my coat.

Part of my late night snack that was bigger than I expected - and tasted like heaven. In the background you can see Campo di Fiori, and also the angel that was my waitress for two heavenly evenings.

There were many other places I visited in Rome, and there will be many more if I just have the opportunity. The hotel where I was accommodated, was located just 200 meters from Campo, so this little place offering night caps and some snack was perfectly located. And in December with most tourists elsewhere (only the next week christmas tourism would pick up) it felt like being in Italy, surrounded with Italian people living their ordinary lives. Primo Cafe wasn't anything fancy, but perfect for the purpose. Small place with good drinks and food, and good heaters. You can't find that kind of outdoor heating in Finland - but in other hand it gets much colder in December in Finland than in Rome. ...therefore go to Rome.

Turku, Coffee House

Coffee House in Aurakatu made an impact on me the day they were opened. I happened to be among the first three to step in the new café (adjoined with two restaurants). After I had ordered my caffe latte (half-automatic) and cinnamon roll, I sat down, only to notice my pastry was still raw. When I pointed it out to the staff, they discussed shortly - and threw every cinnamon roll in trash can. What a remarkable feeling, to be the one causing trouble in the opening evening, even with good reason to do so.

Coffee House belongs to the class 'best-before-date', even it is not utterly bad today either. Two things mainly are the reason to my conclusion: removing excellent baguettes from their list, and the place converting to teen-hang-around place. They did place an age limit for the evenings, so you can have your quiet moments later. Opening hours were one of the good reasons to come to Coffee House. When they opened, it was almost the only place (besides fast-food-chains) open after 7 PM that wasn't a bar. So for people who wanted something more relaxed than watching drunk people stumble around, they provided some improvement for nightlife. Although, in the weekends Amarillo upstairs converts to sort of nightclub, so better to enjoy your quiet evening during the weekdays.

Picture of the late paguette, back when the world was more simple place.

I used to go to Coffee House more when I wrote my masters thesis. I could of thanked them in my introduction, but decided not to single out just one place - there were after all other mistresses also. For many hours I analyzed my interviews, sitting there, sipping tea. Since those days I haven't been there that often, especially because of the teens. Let them have the place, I figure. One other thing was the dimming of the lights. For some strange reason almost every café and bar that stays open after 6-8 PM in Turku, have the acute need to dim the lights so low that you can't read there anymore. For academics who work odd hours reading, thinking and meditating in strange places, this is quite frustrating sometimes. Give me light, please! Just little more would be enough. It would be nice to see the other people's faces too, if you are there with company. Or maybe they think Finns are so ugly that you don't want to see their faces. Go figure...

Turku, Di Trevi

On a cold snowy winter day of  December, new wine bistro DiTrevi opened in Turku, on Aurakatu next to Fontana. My initial plan was to inspect the place later, but walking in snowfall made me ready to sit down and try the newcomer. With interior it competes in same class as Tintå, but more italian style with revealed brick walls and metal chairs. With the place being open only for three hours, there was many free tables to choose from. Variety includes taller tables, sitting by the window on high chair, more secluded room and more crowded space. There are steps downstairs, but I didn't check if there is another room waiting for rush hours. The 'crowded space' has good combination of six two-seated tables that can easily joined together for tables for four. For some Finns it can feel bit too crowded, but for people who love Italy and crowded restaurants, it feels just right. Perhaps next time the word has reached bigger crowds, so there would be more noise and life. Although I didn't have anything to complain with the relatively peaceful atmosphere. Waitresses/waiters greeted warmly and welcomed new customers. So points for them - at least for those two waitress who had the luxury and joy of serving me.

I first ordered only wine - Barbera d'Alba - but decided to try one tapas to snack together with the wine. Both were good choices, tapas being italian meatballs (which tasted also italian). Barbera is one of my favorites, so I wasn't dissappointed to begin with. Their list is compact, suitable for bistro type of restaurant. Of course I was left longing for tapas in Spain, which were much cheaper and bigger. But together with the bread provided, this was enjoyable enough in Finland. Next time I have to try something bigger, and see if I am still happy with the serving. My main point for this day was just relax, sit and read (one my annual traditional rituals, The World in 2013 by Economist).

With Tintå always packed on weekends, Di Trevi brings good competition, variety and choice to pick. Still, the best wine list is in Viinille, but they don't compete with food like Di Trevi, Tintå and E. Ekblom. The co-owner of Viinille visited Di Trevi also when I sat there  - like some waiters from other competing companies. I left the place before 8 PM, so the evening might of been more busy. All in all, the experience was good and the place recommendable. They serve also lunch - although I don't have any idea what that would be like.

Turku, E. Ekblom

Wine bar and restaurant E. Ekblom was the latest newcomer to the restaurant scene of river street in Turku. It was fourth wine bar in Turku, again bringing something different. It offers wine tastings like Viinille and food like Tintå. Unlike Tintå, the quality of service doesn't differ from winter to summer that much. Staff is professional and knows what they are doing - most of the time. Locating mostly in the cellar of old house, it has unique style inside. Brick walls, doorways and stairways are rare in Turku, even there would be possibilities for it in other locations also.

 Small snack and wine on sunny day.

 Some pictures of the cellar.

 Same here...

 ...and there.

Hall upstairs, with an old sign: unauthorized stay in the gateway and in the courtyard not allowed. And some wine while working.

 Ekblom, for me, is mostly option only when I'm bored with the other places, or if I want to eat. There is no reason why I wouldn't come there more often, since it has its merits also. It isn't as popular as Tintå, or provide as good selection of wines as Viinille, but the cellar is unique, and it has its own charm. At the moment of writing this, Ekblom is under quick renovation (for this month), so I am waiting to see what they have in mind to reinvent their image. Seats outside in the summer are good, and the service during summer is like heaven after being disappointed with Tintå's service. Food is also good, so no complaints there either. We had new year's menu in Ekblom last time, and everyone were happy and satisfied with it. Starters buffet and the rest were tasty, and all in all it was much more affordable than some other places in town. Wine selection is good, and will guarantee a good evening.

Turku, Tintå

When I moved to Turku, the streets following the river Aura were much darker. Not just because of lack of light, but because lack of life - or life worth of following. Long left for space of drunkers and drug users, riverbank has gone through major changes, all positive so far. First there was light; lights for the streets and for the river. After the light came life. And with new restaurants the river came once again the centre of happening in Turku. In other hand, the market square, as previous centre (and still in some sense the centre), has declined in its glory. Maybe some day it will experience same kind of face-lift as the riverside. Or maybe it will become more predominantly working-class scene in contrast to upper middle-class restaurant scene by the beautiful (although brown) river.

One of the newcomers, wine bar & restaurant Tintå has been very popular since it was opened. Belonging to same restaurant group as Blanko just 20 meters apart, it also shares its fame - although Tintå has made its own name after the opening. Seats outside offer wonderful view of the river, Aura-bridge, and the shadow of the big 180-year-old trees. Interior is well planned, using plenty of wood, and reminds me of spanish bodegas. Wine list isn't the best in Turku (that belongs to wine bar Viinille, with slightly lower prices also), but stands out very well, offering good wines. Lack of air proper air conditioning can though make some wines too warm, like we experienced once. Also the use of wine refidgerators doesn't always work properly; once we had red wine that was way too cold, and we had to wait for half an hour to it taste better. But in most cases, you'll find good wines to drink.

I do have one thing to complaint of the place though. Wrong temperatures occasionally, or lack of seating available in busy evenings doesn't make me reject the place. But in summer, the seasonal help isn't always the most helpful. Tintå's own staff is professional and they know how to treat a customer. But in the summer, the help isn't at all that attentive, which has made me leave the place twice without getting any service. You don't necessary get any table service to tables outside, if the normal staff isn't there to serve. I guess the seasonal help thinks everyone makes their orders inside.

Tintå 2010, opening summer.

 River and bridge Aura - and some white wine.

 Summer and white wine - and some work, of course. You understand much more about religion after one glass of wine... or sumtin.

 Ciabatta with mozzarella, together with white wine - only if I would remember the wine, it was French and fabulous.

 Red wine for ugly autumn day - and work.

 Inside Tintå: you can see wine list from the mirror and through doorway, and some wine racks above one's head.

Again one bottle of red wine, and I have no clue what it was. But I do remember that it was too warm and we had to cool it down in a cooler. Cheese plate was quite a disappointment. Enough to get you hoping for more wine to suppress the frustration I guess.

Food is decent in Tintå, but you don't want to come here just for food anyway. Slightly pricey food, like small pizzettas taste ok, but makes one think if you really want to pay that much for piece of baked wheat. So, to be short, if you don't bother about spending bit more money and just want to enjoy the place with its many good qualities, Tintå isn't the worst place to have fun. Interior is pleasant and sometimes the company may be near perfect.

Turku, Viinille

One of my favorite places to visit in Turku is wine bar Viinille. Today we have four wine bars in Turku, but when Viinille was opened, it was only the second in town. First was, and is, to be fair, only a section of the brewery restaurant Koulu. They used to have wider selection than today back then, but with competition increased, they focus on their best sides, not competing with the same style than others. Viinille is truly a heaven for any wine taster - at least when we are talking about the restaurant scene in Turku.

Offering wide variety of wines from all around the world, you can make a trip through the wine world in here. For example I once tasted four different wines made from Shiraz-grape, from different countries. Comparing different wineries, you can taste the difference between soils and climate. And you don't have to worry, they serve also smaller glasses. So you don't have to get drunk while tasting. Naturally they serve cheese and other things to eat and taste with the wine. Prices are also affordable, and you will get your money's worth back.

 Wine, cheese, crackers, jazz - a combination for good evening.

 Half bottles of quality wines for two - from France this time. Gigondas Les Reinages 2003 was good, but was left to second place. First price went to Jean Noel Gagnard's Chassagne Montrachet 2005. Excellent vintage for Burgundy, hard to get due high demand, but heavenly to taste. This tasting was December 2011, ten months ago, so I can't describe it in detail, but you can take my word, it was worth it.

Happy customer means a customer who will be back. I always put suit on when I'm going to drink wine...

Viinille is owned by two wine-enthusiasts, who enjoy making their hobby their living. Small place doesn't make you utterly rich, but it does make life happier than serving in a big faceless restaurant. Service is always perfect and personal. They also have tasting evenings, which are booked full well in advance. If you like wine, this is the place to visit in Turku.

Turku, Café/Brasserie Fontana

Fontana was once the best café in Turku. Back then it was privately owned, and had unique style. Unfortunately when the experienced lady who ran the place, retired and nobody continued her wonderful job with the café. Instead, restaurant chain Torre invaded the space - excellent location on Aurakatu, two hundred meters from market square Kauppatori - and made their own version of café. They kept the name Fontana, but expanded the business idea to brasserie style place. When it opened, I was utterly dissappointed. Not only was the interior pale and raw, their products and service didn't have the same unique style. Too much asked? Perhaps. But little things like personal style in decoration, sort of old Turku style with old furniture, and excellent selection of teas, made the old Fontana a special place. In one aspect the new Fontana made to top of my lists. But not in good way. They made the worst caffe latte I have ever tasted, anywhere, in every country.

But fortunately so, Fontana has now had a necessary face-lift, and is much better than it used to be for a few years. They embrace the brasserie side much better, and new interior is inviting. I still haven't tried if they make caffe latte better than they used to, but food and wine tastes good. Some little things can be bothering - like asking 2,50 for cup of tea, meaning: here is hot water, go and fetch your tea bag over there. Just around the corner you get tea made for you with 2 euros. And the marenque pastry I had, was dry and tastless. But if you are looking for brasserie, not just café, you might like current Fontana.

New look for Fontana.

Salads, sandwiches, other stuff to eat and consume.

As you may notice from this picture, small things can matter. Pieces of lunch buffet was left on chairs and floor. Not a view you want to watch when relaxing in café. I wanted to see if they take care of cleaning the place, so I didn't say a thing. For my disappointment, nothing was done, they didn't even wipe the table top; that was left for one customer to do, almost an hour from the point I sat down.

All in all, my boycott for Fontana has ended with the new look and direction. But because of those small things, it isn't my top favorite places. Good enough to visit once in a while though. Food is edible, everything fine there. And they sometimes have good wine, like Guigal's Côtes du Rhône. Sit down and relax, watch the views, still ones and the ones that move.

Turku, Wayne's Coffee (/Aschan Deli) KOP-kolmio - R.I.P.

Reminiscing my one previous offices, Wayne's Coffee - or lately Aschan Deli - was closed this summer. Within the four years it was running, they had three different managers (or managing partners). In my opinion, the best years were in between, with the second managers. It was also the time I presided my office there most regularly - about five times a week. I don't usually remember the names of café managers, but Sini and Katri made the difference with their excellent customer service. With a smile they welcomed every customer. There are enough serial-kill... I mean serious faces in Finnish customer service. It is good that not everyone are like that.

But since café was owned by a chain, first Wayne's Coffee and then Aschan, new owners decided to recycle their employees, and break up the good team. Unfortunately so, café wasn't the same after that. Not just because of the customer service and smile, but also the quality of some things. Two things made me lose my interest in this café: inconsistent quality of my caffe latte, and changing the music from tolerable background-music to radio rock (or something like that). Listening radio wasn't in my mind when I wanted to go to café. But bigger thing was the caffe latte. I was never dissappointed with the caffe latte Sini or Katri made; when they made it, I knew my day would be excellent - at least from that part. Of all cafés in Turku, only Café Art has same consistency.

I used to do much of the planning for my dissertation project in this café. It was a good office once. Small and located in one shopping centre, it still had its good sides. I think there will be some sort of eatery/bistro or like, Picnic or something that sort. Probably not suitable to be my office, but maybe it will please someones interests.

Turku, Café Voltaire

I have been in this little café only three times, which is about 100 times too few. Located in busy hill by Aninkaistenkatu, this French café is good place to relax and dream of other worlds, like France. Owned by French man (speaks also finnish), they also sell French products, and provide French literature to read - if you forgot your own book. Selection of pastries is limited, since it is a small café, but atmosphere is rich. Step inside right moment, and you will be in the middle of multilingual and multicultural world. Since I speak few words of French, I try to be polite and at least greet the owner in French. Simple things make life rich and one's face turn to smile.

Book and café au lait. Enough to keep me happy. You can see their 'library' in the corner, with books (mainly in French) of fiction, travel, food, etc. 

Behind that window runs busy Aninkaistenkatu, but the noise doesn't bother at all - at least myself. But in other hand, I do concentrate better when there is some sort of noise around. Old style door makes you feel welcomed into unique and personal café, not some cheap dump.

I really should get myself into this little café more often. Perhaps this week already. I would put this café in top three of all cafés in Turku at the moment - amongst those I have visited. Not because they have best selection of serving, but the atmosphere and personal, smiling service. Oui, c'est parfait.

Turku, Café Börs

When I moved to Turku, back in previous millenium, my first (or second - or first of two first) regular town-office was located in Café Börs. Located in the lobby of Hotel Börs, and together with other restaurant/bar/nightclub-facilities, it was back then a popular spot. Admittedly, there wasn't that much competition in that period. It was only after the turn of millenium, when Turku got much better selection of cafés. Back then, there was Aschan, Naantalin aurinkoinen and Café Fontana - and few small places. Café Fontana was my favorite back then, but more of that later.

Café Börs used to have good cappuccinos and caffe lattes. Provided with daily newspapers, all office supplies were there. Other serving wasn't and still isn't breath-taking, but after all, it is supposed to be a lobby café. Back in good old days (!), café and bar were separated. After a renovation they joined them together - or rather threw the café part in the bar. Café had went downhill few years already, and what is most regrettable, they changed their good coffee machine out and replaced it with automatic piece of plastic. With that move, the quality of my caffe latte got so bad, that I withdrew my appointments, and looked elsewhere. Luckily there were already few new cafés in town, so I wasn't left alone in the streets.

Above is Börs Café in its present condition. The old café counter was located in the corner behind the couch. Still, it provides fair enough views for the market square, even with lousy coffee.

With its location and views of the market square, Börs Café&Bar will still have its merits for meeting place. I gave it a second chance last year, changing to tea, but since there are many other cafés now in town, it isn't my regular office anymore. One of my Christmas traditions has been a cappuccino in Café Börs after listening the Christmas peace declaration (or something like that) in old market square across the river. They provide their popular Christmas glögi also, but I used to prefer cappuccino (last time I took the glögi). Due the development of last years, this tradition is on its verge of ending. But they'll survive, even without me.

Turku, Café Art

For the first text in this blog, I choose a place from my home town, and one of my favorites. Working as sociologist of religion, and writing now my dissertation, I need creative places to write and work. For that, I have various 'offices' where I work. In summertime my regular spot has been for many years now Café Art by the river Aura in Turku. Privately owned (read: no chain-café-bullshit, but rather a family business with soul and unique style) café is famous for their coffee. But at same time it means that there is usually at least short waiting time for getting your cappuccino or like - one reason why I choose usually tea. There is also good selection of teas to pick from, so quality is quaranteed, and you don't have to wait in queue so long.

Book, tea, and half eated cinnamon roll - and of course the trees and stuff - perfect workday in summer.

 This time newspaper, and poetry of the scenery. When heat gets too much, trees will provide shadow and wind blowing along the river will help you to enjoy the hot day.

Inside, one room - also available for meetings etc. This time I escaped from the rain and prolonged my office hours by one cappuccino. On the wall you see one piece of art they also sell - hence the name Café Art.

Café Art has been running now for so many years (at least seven, i think), that I don't remember when exactly they opened. There used to be another café, Café France, in same place, provided with services of French consulate in Turku - before it moved to Casagrande house three hundred meters up to the riverside. Café France had poor serving, but excellent service. Table service in Finnish cafés is very rare, so it was wonderful little extra for tiny café. Café Art, at first, continued table service, but after their business grew, they bought bigger coffeemaker, display cabinets etc - in other words renovated the whole café - the table service ended. So by advancing in one direction, they withdrew in other. But still, I continue going there - especially in summertime.

Afterword:
...Not long after I posted this, Café Art raised prices on the products I usually order. Coincidence, maybe, probably, but it did cause me and myself to visit other places more often. That's only logical, I quess?

Update:
...Not a year from my post and the price for tea has gone up 40% and for cinnamon roll 50%. Quite a strike on the products I frequently choose. Not the best policy considering old customers and their satisfaction. More subtle rises would be better tolerated. Less quality with higher prices...